A whale of a time

Today we headed for Ǻlesund. But first things first. Down to the single computer in the lobby to access Andy in America and see what he had been up to in the previous week. That was the week of the Puerto Rico Parade. Seamus was in Ballinskelligs. Now he's somewhere in the mountains of NW Ireland!

Our day started much as yesterday had been, lovely, warm, pleasant and dry. (By July 07 I&R had cruised across our Circle and reported that it had rained in Norway for four weeks after we left ... were we lucky or what?) But it was also a feature of this trip that each corner brought a new experience. It seems that only a few kilometres down the road we were again into new territory. Now we were into steep, wooded valleys with snow-capped ridges. And it was cold, really cold, in the shade. We were early enough and the valley sides steep enough to mean we were in the shade and it was cold. The first indications that we were close to 62 north. A reminder that we were getting ever closer to the Arctic Circle. We both remarked how “Swiss” looking the scenery was, but beautiful or not we used the first opportunity to stop in a bit of sunlight and put the linings back in our jackets. Welcome to another Norway.

In the meantime, in Ireland Fianna Fáil were examining a document from the Green Party as negotiations were underway toward the possible formation of a coalition government. In France results from the first round of legislative elections the day before suggested that the new right-wing president, Nicolas Sarkozy, would obtain an overwhelming majority in the National Assembly next Sunday. We, however, were insulated. It was also our first workday in Norway and that too made a difference. There was more activity in the fields and tractors and agricultural vehicles on the road. The traffic was a little heavier than it had been too. However we were now being fussy. More traffic meant we encountered a car every few minutes rather than meeting a few cars every minute.

We arrived at the first Ferry (Anda to Lote) as it was pulling in. Great timing! No delay getting on board and across we went.

We tried for a cup of coffee in Nordfjordeid. Parked neatly in the car park. Took off our helmets and unhooked a small bag from the bike before walking around the village. We were perhaps a bit early and nothing appeared to be open. Very quickly – ok in less than 5 minutes - we abandoned the search and were on our bikes and under way again.

The spin was beautiful along the E39 - against the sea and roads to the next ferry crossing – Folkestad to Volda – where we started a second queue. And it worked. We were first onto the ferry and first off!

In Volda we carefully parked the bikes in splendid sunshine and sat outside to have our morning snack. No sticky bunds here but they were serving pancakes so we helped ourselves to a couple of those. Very nice. As we enjoyed the break we could not help but notice that rain clouds were gathering. B, with his sailing experience, is ever alert to the approach of rainclouds. The skies darkened but we hoped that an optimistic outlook and suppression of negative vibes would keep the worst at bay.

We got close to Alesund when we ran out of road. Not that we needed another ferry (we had used 3 that day already) but the town centre was a long way off the main road and we could not get our bearings. The GPS just sulked! Then we spotted the beacon that is the hope of so many foreign travellers. The McDonalds were clearly visible on a nearby hill: so we figured that would be our point of refuge - our safe haven. Much as a church might have done in medieval times, Ronnnie seesm to be capturing the high gound!! (Go on: comment...I dare you!!). The weather improved too so we could sit outside again and check the maps in more detail: and figured our way into Alesund.

Before long and only a few missed turns later we were being given a very friendly welcome into our hotel for the night. Another 160 kilometres done. Their parking was a ‘bit of a distance’ away but ‘bikers usually just pop the bikes on the path outside. It will be fine if you keep it tight to the wall.’ So we did. And then we ‘did’ the town.

Very quickly we were at the waters edge and encountered an Irish registered yacht “TARA” in the harbour. B engaged one of the crew in conversation and established that they were on their way to the Lofoten Islands. Unfortunately he also confirmed what we though we understood of the local forecasts. Not good. We were going to need lots of positive outlook! I did not like the mention of sleet and gales. It as enough to drive one to drink.

Irish at sea in Norway

Which we did. Well we walked to the nearest Irish pub. I mean once you have gone to Norway and been to McDonald and an Irish pub you only need Starbucks or Hard Rock to complete the unique experiences offered by travel in foreign lands!! “Dirty Nelly’s” got its own back and only served Murphy’s and not Guinness, B was seriously unimpressed.

Irish reflections on potential drinkers

Although the town was small we walked the centre for a while looking for a suitable restaurant. But our efforts paid off. Hummer Kanari looked like it met our criteria. When we studied the menu it included raw whale. I wondered. We were in one of only three countried in the world where this was legal, Iceland and Japan being the other two. Lots of ethical questions. But I felt that the chance to taste whale would be limited and I have always urged the children to ‘ give new food a try’ . So we ordered one starter! B, against his better judgement to be fair, tried it but felt it was ‘tasteless even in the marinade – not to mention killing the creature (also tasteless). Our serving was of wafer thin slices, which had all the appearances, including colour (I though this was the marinade but have since learned that whale meat is red - I had expected white) and texture, of Parma ham but little flavour. If you want to read a little more try http://luna.pos.to/whale/icr_fact.html or http://www.iwcoffice.org/index.htm Don’t think I will be rushing for it again. Unlike swordfish which I tried in the US and loved. The rest of the meal was traditional and wonderful. Thoroughly enjoyable and great value.

Over dinner we had noted that there had been no sign of the Politi since Bergen and indeed that smokers were not a common sight. Coming out of the restaurant we bumped into a group of smokers blocking the doorway and in an effort to avoid them we stepped off the footpath into the path of an oncoming Politi car…………!

We spend another pleasant hour or so wandering along the harbour. Alesund is the HQ for the Norwegian Coast Guard. Impressive offices and equipment. Maybe Ireland can aspire to the same.

Smokers a la carte

Norwegian Coast Guard

As we rambled back to the hotel we noticed ‘Boy racers’ beginning to collect in a side street. They raced along it and did donoughts at the end of it. They were to become noticeable in many towns, no matter how small.

We retired as the rain started to fall.

Gales?

Sleet?

That's it for July 07! See you next week. Same time same channel! If you are Irish, or rather in Ireland, enjoy the Bank Holiday.

We were there once